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Author Topic: Making jeans  (Read 314 times)

Max50

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Making jeans
« on: January 20, 2018, 11:11:32 AM »
I am making jeans using the Ottobre 5/2017 pattern. I traced a size 44 and did some measuring. If I used those traced pieces I would need to add 1.5" to the waistband and at 'belly' level. But I'd need to decrease 4.5" at the hips. So I think it would be easier if I choose a pattern that fits my waist and then alter the fit at the hips. I would need about the size 48 for the waist and size 42 for the hips. The problem is they have 2 different pattern size ranges 34-44 or 46- 52. The line drawing for the larger size range looks more curvy in the hips than the smaller size range, which is opposite what my shape is.

What pattern size would be best to start with - the size that fits my waist but will need dramatic narrowing of the hips? Or should I use the one I traced and adjust the waist up and the hips down? This is a problem I have with all patterns. And for reference these are classic 5 pocket jeans with back yoke.

Thanks for any help

Administrator

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Re: Making jeans
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2018, 11:11:55 AM »
I don't know Ottobre's sizing... is it pretty consistent from one style to another? If it is, I'd probably suggest you try a plain darted pants pattern from them in hip size, see what you need to do to make a muslin fit you in the waist, and then decide on the jeans pattern size.

I'm assuming these are the classic 5 pocket jeans with a back yoke. That yoke contains the dart-equivalents, and you don't need as much dart uptake as they assume. It's a little more work, imo, to take that shaping back out of a yoke that has already been done than it is to make a new yoke from a darted pattern's back.

Amanda Bush

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Re: Making jeans
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2018, 11:12:38 AM »
Palmer/Pletsch says use the hip. It's in proportions or your legs. I have a similar quandary. If I fit my waist, the rest flaps in the wind!

wildcat

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Re: Making jeans
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2018, 11:13:13 AM »
The waist really only affects the waist/back. Starting with a bigger hip size means the pattern will be bigger all over, since it's been graded to be so. Which means, as Diane said, the legs will be bigger too. If that's what you want, use your waist measurement to pick pattern size. If not, use your hip measurement and grade up the waist (which is pretty easy if you do it around the pockets instead of through them).

SewingAlma

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Re: Making jeans
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2018, 11:13:52 AM »
So true! Increasing waist girth (that's such a funny word to me) is so, so easy and straightforward.

Melba Chambers

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Re: Making jeans
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2018, 11:14:31 AM »
I have started doing this alteration b/c I am now sewing for friends. I have been blending sizes--which often means pulling out both size packs; but it sounds like you have both size ranges available to work with, so that should be pretty simple, too.

I am SUCH a novice at pants, but I am very familiar with my pants-wearing-parts  . This is a great discussion, since I get stuck on the "starting size" often, too! (I have a small frame but generous curves, and whatever I choose is either going to be too small or too large. It seems easier now to add than subtract--the extra fabric in a too-large mockup really confuses me, but "this part is too tight" is pretty straightforward to interpret! )

MWagner

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Re: Making jeans
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2018, 11:15:14 AM »
Also keep in mind these are supposed to be a mid-rise, the waistband is a bit bellow the natural waist. I know in my case, although my waist is a larger size than my hip, even just a bit bellow the actual waist, hip is a good enough approximation. I usually only need to alter the waist on a high waisted style. I guess my high hip is on the same size chart as my hip or close enough. Also you'll be dealing with a fabric with a little stretch except in the waistband which is stabilized. This is already designed into the pattern, but it still means you have more play at the hips than waist. If anything err on the side of tight at the hip (where it can stretch) and plan to alter the waist (where it can't).

So, I agree with the others, trace based on hip size. If you want you can still take that tracing to the other pattern and get a rough idea of the larger waist. Or just trace the larger waistband as a reality check. The waistband is nearly straight so altering at the side seams is all that is required.

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Re: Making jeans
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2018, 11:15:57 AM »
Try this on your muslin: Figure out how much you need to get the pants top up to your waist, and just zigzag extension fabric onto the top of the pants-- not even a real seam, just overlap and stitch through.

Baste In the side seams, and draw in your waistline and then see if you think you've got something useful.

The other thing that strikes me as you describe yourself is that you might find that a menswear draft fits better, though you are still likely to lengthen the rise to your natural waist.